There are six basic silhouettes used for ballroom dance gowns; however, remember that there are many variations and endless combinations!

Your particular body shape and figure challenges may require some pretty creative amalgamations of design elements and styles. Following is a brief description of each style with some very generalized recommendations.

Princess

This dress has a tight-fitting bodice with princess seams that has either a natural, a slightly dropped, or a very low waistline. The bodice may be rounded or come to a point at the bottom, and may be structured, detached, or made from a different (even contrasting) fabric. The bodice may even extend below the hips, as in “star” type dress. The skirt can be very full with many layers or a simple a-line. It may or may not have princess seams on the skirt.

The princess style gown is particularly good if you are:

• an hourglass shape or on the full figured side
• full-busted

Skip this style if you are

• petite (the wide skirt will make you look shorter)
• small busted

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Panel

This style features vertically seamed panels beginning at the shoulder or under the bustline. The panels extend down and widen at the hem. It usually has no horizontal seams. The skirt is usually an a-line with added fullness or a slit. This classic dress is flattering to many body types.

The panel style works well if you are

• short and/or curvy, because the vertical lines will elongate and streamline
• full-busted and the neckline is scooped or a vee because it will elongate the neck
• short waisted

Avoid this style if you are

• very thin
• small busted
• long waisted

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Empire

The high waist is the defining element of an empire style gown. The waist may be right under the bust or just above the natural waistline or anywhere in between. The skirt is generally a modified a-line or straight with a slit. The dress may or may not have princess style seams on the bodice and skirt. The empire style dress works for smooth as well as Latin dresses. This style shows off the bust and shoulders and disguises the waist and hips.

Empire gowns are a good choice if you are

• short
• thick-waisted
• small-busted

Don’t try this style if you are

• on the full-figured side
• apple shaped
• large busted

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Sheath

Sheaths are simple, close-fitting dresses with few seamlines or darts. Sheaths are often cut on the bias to aid with movement and fit snugly. They are most often used for Latin dresses, but may be used for Smooth as well. The mermaid dress, which flares at or below the knee, is a popular Smooth sheath. Because of the fabric choice and cut, sheaths tend to be clingy and sexy.

The sheath style works well if you are

• trim and like showing off your curves
• petite
• full busted

You might not like this style if you are

• pear shaped
• trying to look thinner
• short

Built-in Bra

As the name implies, this style has a bra incorporated into the design to add support and control.The dress generally falls from below the bust line into the skirt, which may be straight, slightly flared, or a-line. Because the bra is part of the dress, the neckline can be quite daring, much like a bikini top. This style works best for Latin dresses. It’s an especially good choice for extreme bust lines: either very small or very large.

Built-in Bra styles are a good choice if you are

• small busted
• petite
• large busted

Don’t try this style if you are

• on the full-figured side
• short waisted

Two Piece

If you have a tiny waist and rock-hard abs, show them off with a 2-piece style! Although usually seen in Latin or Rhythm dresses, a conservative 2-piece can work for American Smooth as well. Variations on this style abound and have changed quite a bit throughout the years, e.g., blouson top, built-in bra top, low-riding skirt, asymmetrical skirt waist, etc.

The 2-piece style works well if you

• are narrow waisted
• are petite
• have great abs or back

Don’t try this style if you are

• on the full-figured side
• short waisted
• short